Inside the Pilgrims Fountain Inn

OK the house is cute. But what makes the thing tick is the volunteers. And it isn't easy. But since volunteers typically stay for a week, they can go all out keeping those bathrooms clean, running two pilgrims back 20 km. in the car to recoup their lost walking sticks, cooking as delicious a meal as you can for 30... on a budget.

If you are tall, volunteering at this house is humbling. The short Galicians of previous generations built these places low. And between the sagging beams and the nagging hung decorations of farm implements and so on, you whack your head a lot on the charming decor, turn-of-the century hand-forged nails, and kitchen pots.

But there is much to compensate the stooping. The beautiful link between the St James Way and the path of life itself opens up many doors of conversation with pilgrims and volunteers throughout the day. Dinner together in the evening is absolutely captivating. If there are many German and northern Europeans, the friendly hum of conversation has measured swells. The more roaring sea breaker conversations arrive with the Italians, Spanish and other Mediterranean guests. The sense of "family for one evening" opens up many excellent table conversations. There is no better opportunity to talk of spirituality, God, reasons for living, questions and doubts.

I've volunteered at the house now for three summers, this last summer for three weeks. I'm hooked! There is no better crossroads of this type that I know of in all of Europe. As a Christian I simply must be there. It is challenging - but I learn so much - and the team spirit among the volunteers is encouraging.

Maybe they could lower the floor a bit.

Saint James Way

There is nothing like being in the right place at the right time. Ligonde, in northwest Spain doesn't seem like the right place except for cows.

But the Saint James Way runs through Ligonde. And there is an inn on the edge of town, as you leave heading towards mythic Santiago de Compostela. If you don't take the sharp bend to the right you run into what appears to be an old style garage. The walls are stone, the roof is random shaped slate. There is a fountain that looks like a bathtub, vertically on it's side. A scallop shell is carved above - one of the many symbols of the St James Way. This is no ordinary wayside farm garage. For one thing, people are hanging about. On the left there is free coffee. A little sign says "Albergue" or "Inn". So, this is an in for St James Way pilgrims. Looks cute. There is a sign with a quote next to the fountain:

"Everyone who drinks of this water shall thirst again;14 but whoever drinks of the water that I shall give him shall never thirst; but the water that I shall give him shall become in him a well of water springing up to eternal life." Jesus

Can we peek in side? Of course! And right there beyond the warm dining room with candles lit are what they say are the two cleanest bathrooms between Roncesvalles and Santiago. Perfect!

There are more than the usual one or two tired workers - and these volunteers are kind of perky - they seem to like what they are doing. They say this is a "Chrisitan Inn" - well, this is the kind of thing one expects along the St James Way, and really there is precious little of this kind of stop-over.

They have beds with sheets upstairs - and you can stay for free (donations accepted of course). And the evening meal is included - and breakfast tomorrow morning. And we can hang about and - well - talk about life, what we are learning along the Way. This is the best part of doing the Camino de Santiago, as they call it here.

For us as Christian volunteers, it is a wonderful opportunity to serve the pilgrims who pass by the house and who spend the evening and night with us - and to express and live our own faith in the one who said "I am the Way", Jesus himself.

It is the right place and the right time - at this crossroads of the St James Way - with time to talk and contemplate life.