Inside the Pilgrims Fountain Inn

OK the house is cute. But what makes the thing tick is the volunteers. And it isn't easy. But since volunteers typically stay for a week, they can go all out keeping those bathrooms clean, running two pilgrims back 20 km. in the car to recoup their lost walking sticks, cooking as delicious a meal as you can for 30... on a budget.

If you are tall, volunteering at this house is humbling. The short Galicians of previous generations built these places low. And between the sagging beams and the nagging hung decorations of farm implements and so on, you whack your head a lot on the charming decor, turn-of-the century hand-forged nails, and kitchen pots.

But there is much to compensate the stooping. The beautiful link between the St James Way and the path of life itself opens up many doors of conversation with pilgrims and volunteers throughout the day. Dinner together in the evening is absolutely captivating. If there are many German and northern Europeans, the friendly hum of conversation has measured swells. The more roaring sea breaker conversations arrive with the Italians, Spanish and other Mediterranean guests. The sense of "family for one evening" opens up many excellent table conversations. There is no better opportunity to talk of spirituality, God, reasons for living, questions and doubts.

I've volunteered at the house now for three summers, this last summer for three weeks. I'm hooked! There is no better crossroads of this type that I know of in all of Europe. As a Christian I simply must be there. It is challenging - but I learn so much - and the team spirit among the volunteers is encouraging.

Maybe they could lower the floor a bit.